Hand Luggage.

Fez tanneries

Today we’re heading to one of Fez’s tanneries to see the ancient practice of curing animals skins for use in clothing, bags and other items.

Aerial view of Chouara Tannery in Fez, showing a series of circular stone vessels filled with dye and cleaning solutions, surrounded by buildings with drying hides and workers in the courtyards.

Aerial view of Chouara Tannery in Fez, showcasing stone vessels filled with various dyed liquids and workers processing animal hides.

Chouara Tannery is one of three tanneries in the city. It is the largest tannery and one of the oldest.

Aerial view of Chouara Tannery in Fez, showcasing numerous stone vessels filled with colorful dyes and liquids, along with workers preparing animal hides in the bustling tannery courtyard surrounded by tan-colored buildings.

View of Chouara Tannery in Fez, showing a series of colorful dyeing vats and workers handling animal hides.

It’s located in Fes el Bali, the oldest medina quarter of the city, near the Saffarin Madrasa.

Since the city began, the tanning industry has been continually operating in the same fashion as it did in the early centuries.

Aerial view of Chouara Tannery in Fez, featuring large stone vessels filled with colorful dye and white liquids for tanning animal hides, with workers and leather hanging to dry.

Two workers on the stone vessels at Chouara Tannery, Fez, surrounded by pits filled with dye and liquids for softening animal hides.

Aerial view of Chouara Tannery in Fez, featuring large circular dyeing vats filled with colorful liquids, surrounded by traditional buildings.

Today, the tanning industry in the city is considered one of the main tourist attractions.

But be warned – it is incredibly smelly! They use various mixtures of cow urine, pigeon feces, quicklime, salt, and water in order to clean and soften the tough skins.

It is also a notorious hotbed for hassle according to the guidebooks – which almost put me off visiting.

A worker at the Chouara Tannery in Fez handling animal hides, with a stone wall and lamppost in the background.

Aerial view of Chouara Tannery in Fez, showcasing numerous shallow stone vessels filled with colorful dye and liquids, with workers tending to the hides.

However we must have struck it very lucky as we strolled in behind a tour group, heading straight up to the viewing platform, grabbed our snaps and scarpered before anyone could put hte hard sell on us!

The tanneries are packed with round stone vessels filled with dye or white liquids for softening the hides.

Hides hanging on a wall at a tannery in Fez, showcasing the leather curing process in traditional Moroccan craftsmanship.

This process takes two to three days and prepares the hides to readily absorb the dyes.

Workers handling animal skins at a tannery in Fez, with colorful textiles and a building in the background.

They are then soaked in different dyeing solutions, which use natural colorants such as poppy for red, indigo for blue, and henna for orange.

Workers handling animal hides at a tannery in Fez, showcasing the traditional leather curing process.

However at certain times of the year, such as when we visiting in September, the colours are limited to browns and white.

A view of the Chouara Tannery in Fez, featuring drying animal hides hanging from a building wall under a clear blue sky.

The leather goods produced in the tanneries are then exported around the world – but of course there are literally 100s of market stalls selling any leather item you could possibly want are in Fez’s medina.

Frantic Fez

Our group adventure ends in the ancient and hectic city of Fez where we are staying at possibly the most beautiful riad I have ever seen!

A man sitting on a blue couch in a traditional Moroccan riad with intricate tile patterns and ornate carved architecture in the background.

A decorative statue of a woman holding a golden vessel atop her head, standing next to a marble fountain, set against a background of intricate tiled flooring in a riad in Fez.

Fez Riad Al Makan is a slice of traditional heaven with stunning tiles, ornately carved wood and all the Moroccan hospitality you can dream of.

Intricate architectural details of Riad Al Makan in Fez, showcasing ornate carvings and beautiful tile work, with potted plants framing the entrance.

Interior of a beautifully decorated riad in Fez, featuring intricately carved wooden doors, ornate tilework, and plush seating with decorative pillows.

Fez is one of the largest cities in Morocco, with a population of 1.2 million, according to the 2024 census.

And where better to buy the iconic headwear than straight from its makers?!!

A smiling man wearing a red fez and blue glasses stands in front of intricately patterned tiles and ornate decorations in a riad in Fez, Morocco.

A person smiling, wearing a traditional Moroccan red fez and blue glasses, standing in a beautifully decorated riad with intricate tilework and wooden carvings.

Located to the northwest of the Atlas Mountains, it is surrounded by hills and the old city is centered around the Fez River.

As with all Morrocan cities it is packed full of stunning traditional craftmanship.

A calico kitten sitting on tiled flooring in front of wooden doors in Fez.

An interior view of a shop in Fez displaying an array of traditional Moroccan shoes and decorative items, with intricate ceiling designs and warm lighting.

The city consists of two old medina quarters, Fes el-Bali and Fes Jdid, and the much larger modern urban Ville Nouvelle area founded during the French colonial era.

A small orange kitten sitting on a granite floor near a wooden door.

A person standing in front of an intricately carved wooden door with colorful geometric patterns in a traditional Moroccan setting.

The Medina of Fez is listed as a World Heritage Site and is one of the world’s largest and oldest urban pedestrian zones.

We’re off to see one of the most famous, and smelly attractions of Fez next!!

Saraha camp

We’re spending a night under the stars in the Sahara desert!!

A view of white tents set up in the Sahara desert at dusk, with lights illuminating the path and sand dunes in the background.

A person smiling for a selfie in the Sahara Desert, with illuminated tents and a sunset in the background.

Looks very cosy, but there is no aircon or windows so it was a sultry night!!

Then we’re heading off before dawn to catch a glimpse of the sunrise…

Silhouettes of people walking on sand dunes in the Sahara desert at dusk.

A camel resting on the sandy dunes of the Sahara desert during dusk.

The pastle shades of the desert as it wakes up are incredibly soothing.

Group of travelers sitting on the sandy dunes of the Sahara desert as night falls.

A person standing on sand dunes in the Sahara Desert, wearing a dark shirt and shorts, with footprints in the foreground.

And as the sun arrives it turns the landscape into an orange wonderland.

Footprints in the red sands of the Sahara desert, with undulating dunes in the background.

A person smiling while wearing a blue scarf, standing in the Sahara desert with sand dunes in the background.

A group of people riding camels across the sandy dunes of the Sahara Desert, with a clear blue sky overhead.

What a truly amazing experience it was. Although I might need to tell my face that!!!

A person wearing a light blue shirt and a blue scarf stands in a sandy landscape, with gentle winds and a clear sky in the Sahara desert.

The Sahara

We’ve finally arrived at the most evocative part of our incredible trip… the actual Sahara desert!!

A caravan of camels with riders walking through the sandy dunes of the Sahara Desert under a clear blue sky.

We’ll be mounting our trusty camel steads and plodding onto the heart of this natural wonder for a night under the stars.

A traveler standing next to a camel in the Sahara Desert, wearing casual clothing and holding a water bottle, with sand dunes and other camels in the background.

A person wearing sunglasses and a blue headscarf smiles in front of camels in the Sahara desert.

So sit back and enjoy the first glimpses of this mysterious, almost mythical place!!

A group of people riding camels in the Sahara Desert, with sand dunes in the background.

A person wearing a green scarf and traditional clothing stands on the sandy surface of the Sahara desert, with shadows and footprints visible around them.

A person riding a camel in the Sahara desert, smiling and looking back at the camera, with sand dunes in the background.

Naturally I about as comfortable and graceful around camels as I am anything else… but luckily most people are absorbed in the incredible scenery, so paying no attention to my goofy face!!

A person smiling while interacting with a camel on sand dunes, displaying a joyful moment in the Sahara desert.

A group of people riding camels through the sandy landscape of the Sahara Desert during twilight.

Tinghir Valley

After a full day exploring we’re glad to stop in the relaxing little oasis of our Dades Valley hotel.

Outdoor seating area with unique chairs and a small table, featuring earthy tones and a sunny sky in the background.

View of a serene hotel courtyard with a swimming pool, surrounded by traditional Moroccan architecture and a bright blue sky.

After a relaxing night we’re heading out on our Dades and Tinghir valley exploration.

A panoramic view of the Dades Valley showcasing rolling hills and mountain ridges under a clear blue sky.

Yet more stunning scenery speeds past us.

A scenic view of Dades Valley featuring traditional earthen buildings surrounded by lush greenery and palm trees under a clear blue sky.

We stop off in the town of Tinghir, a city in the region of Drâa-Tafilalet, south of the High Atlas and north of the Little Atlas in central Morocco.

A person climbing a tall palm tree with ripe dates in a sunny landscape.

A person wearing sunglasses and a patterned shirt taking a selfie in front of a valley with a village in the background under a clear blue sky.

It is the capital of Tinghir Province and its name originally referred to the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, but its area has expanded to encompass surrounding villages and refers to the entire oasis.

A person in sunglasses posing in front of a building with the sign 'Mosquee Ikelane' in the Dades Valley.

Narrow pathway between mud-brick houses in the Dades Valley, with palm trees and a clear blue sky.

The lush palm valleys and fertile parcels of farmland make for a verdant spectacle.

Tall palm tree with clusters of dates against a clear blue sky, surrounded by lush greenery.

A man standing on a dirt path surrounded by green vegetation and palm trees under a clear blue sky.

And finally an obligatory stop to see some beautiful local crafts, this time hand woven carpets with mint tea.

Very pretty but out of our price range!

A smiling man stands inside a room filled with colorful handwoven carpets and decorative items, with a wooden door partially open behind him.

A woman seated on the floor in a traditional setting, working on hand woven carpets, surrounded by colorful yarns and textiles.

Ait BenHaddou

Aït Benhaddou is a historic ighrem or ksar (fortified village) along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh.

A couple poses for a photo in a sunny outdoor setting with Aït Benhaddou's traditional earthen buildings in the background.

The site of the ksar has been fortified since the 11th century during the Almoravid period.

A view of Aït Benhaddou with a bridge crossing a river, featuring palm trees and a rocky hill in the background.

However none of the current buildings are believed to date from before the 17th century.

Aït Benhaddou, a historic ksar, featuring traditional earthen architecture surrounded by palm trees and vegetation.

A person standing in front of Aït Benhaddou's ancient earthen buildings, surrounded by palm trees and a clear blue sky.

The site’s strategic importance was due to its location in the Ounila Valley along one of the main trans-Saharan trade routes.

A local man helps another man put on a blue headscarf in a street of Aït Benhaddou, with colorful garments hanging on a wall behind them.

The Tizi n’Tichka pass (see the previous post) was reached via this route, and was one of the few routes across the Atlas Mountains, crossing between Marrakech and the Dra’a Valley on the edge of the Sahara.

A man wearing a blue scarf and glasses stands in front of a clay wall with a window featuring decorative ironwork.

A person standing in front of Aït Benhaddou, a historic ksar, with palm trees and a mountain in the background.

The village’s buildings are grouped together within a defensive wall that includes corner towers and a gate.

A panoramic view of Aït Benhaddou, showcasing the historic fortified village, traditional adobe structures, and surrounding greenery along the river.

They include dwellings of various size ranging from modest houses to tall structures with towers. Some of the buildings are decorated in their upper parts with geometric motifs

A panoramic view of the historic Aït Benhaddou, showcasing its traditional mud-brick architecture surrounded by palm trees and arid landscape.

The ksar’s structures are made entirely out of rammed earth, adobe, clay bricks, and wood.

A couple poses together under a large straw umbrella in a rocky desert landscape.

A couple standing on a hilltop overlooking the scenic landscape of Aït Benhaddou, with a view of palm trees and the distant mountains under a clear blue sky.

Rammed earth (also known as pisé, tabia, or al-luh) was a highly practical and cost-effective material but required constant maintenance.

Here you can see some of the street stalls inside the old village.

Colorful rugs and textiles hanging for sale in Aït Benhaddou, with a clear blue sky above.

A local vendor sitting beside colorful rugs and textiles displayed for sale against the walls of traditional adobe buildings in Aït Benhaddou.

The ksar has been significantly restored in modern times, thanks in part to its use as a Hollywood filming location and to its inscription on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1987.

A panoramic view of Aït Benhaddou, showcasing the ancient ksar's traditional earthen architecture against a backdrop of arid hills and palm trees in the Ounila Valley.

A large number of films shot in Morocco have used Aït Benhaddou as a location, including: Lawrence of Arabia (1962) The Mummy (1999) Gladiator (2000) [13] Alexander (2004) Kingdom of Heaven (2005) and Game of Thrones!

Narrow passageway in Aït Benhaddou, showcasing traditional earthen buildings under a clear blue sky.

Narrow alleyway between traditional earthen buildings in Aït Benhaddou, showcasing textured walls and wooden roofs under a clear blue sky.

Most residents now live in the modern village across the valley from the old ksar.

Tizi n’Tichka

Tizi n’Tichka is a mountain pass in Morocco, linking the south-east of Marrakesh to the city of Ouarzazate through the High Atlas mountains.

Two colorful camel figurines against a mountainous desert landscape, showcasing winding roads and greenery in the background.

It lies above the great Marrakesh plains, and is a gateway to the Sahara.

Aerial view of Tizi N Tichka pass showcasing winding roads and mountainous terrain under a clear blue sky.

At 2,205 metres it is the highest major mountain pass in North Africa.

Scenic view from Tizi N Tichka pass featuring decorative models of camels against a mountainous landscape under a clear blue sky.

We’re winding our way through the pass enroute to the epic Sahara desert!

Man standing at Tizi N Tichka pass overlooking mountainous landscape and winding roads.

The serpentine roads wiggle through the Atlas Mountains like furious snakes.

A scenic view of the Tizi N Tichka pass, showcasing winding roads through mountainous terrain with a mix of rugged hills and patches of greenery.

It’s a stunning view.

Expansive view from Tizi N Tichka Pass, showcasing mountainous terrain and winding roads under a clear blue sky.

Koutabia Mosque

The Kutubiyya Mosque or Koutoubia Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakesh and will probably be one of the first things you see when arriving.

A person jumping joyfully in front of the Kutubiyya Mosque minaret in Marrakesh on a clear day.

The mosque was founded in 1147 by the Almohad caliph Abd al-Mu’min right after he conquered Marrakesh from the Almoravids.

A second version of the mosque was entirely rebuilt by Abd al-Mu’min around 1158, with Ya’qub al-Mansur possibly finalizing construction of the minaret around 1195. This second mosque is the structure that stands today.

View of the Kutubiyya Mosque minaret in Marrakesh against a clear blue sky, showcasing its intricate geometric designs and height.

A view of the Kutubiyya Mosque's minaret in the background, with a decorative fountain in the foreground surrounded by lush greenery and palm trees.

The minaret tower, 77 metres (253 ft) in height, is decorated with varying geometric arch motifs and topped by a spire and metal orbs.

It likely inspired other buildings such as the Giralda of Seville and the Hassan Tower of Rabat, which were built shortly after in the same era.

View of the Koutoubia Mosque's minaret towering above a courtyard with stone pillars, under a clear blue sky.

Le Jardin Secret

We’re heading into our last days in Marrakech before heading off into the desert.

I will never get tired of the colourful sights of this city.

Taking a break in the main square for some sustenance!!

A few more vibrant snaps from around the main square.

Taking a break from the hectic streets of Marrakech we slip into a peaceful paradise hidden in the depths of the medina. The Jardin Secret.

The origins of the complex date back to the Saadian Dynasty, more than four hundred years ago.

Rebuilt in the mid-Nineteenth century it’s a tranquil haven of greenery and peace.

The exotic garden is filled with plants from all over the world all complemented with graceful architecture.

The garden is a metaphor of heaven; it is a sacred place, laid out according to rigid geometrical rules, in which the Muslim order asserts itself over the wild disorder of nature.

The ornate hand-carved stuccos and geometric designs made by master decorators showcase the outstanding skills of the local craftsmen.

Todra Gorge

Deep in the rocky Atlas Mountains on one of the roads to the Sahara from Marrakech lies the dramatic scenery of the Todra Gorge (called locally Toudgha Gorge)

A breathtaking view of the Todra Gorge, showcasing towering red limestone walls reaching over 400 meters against a clear blue sky, with visitors at the base.

This is a spectacular natural oasis created by the River Todra carving its way through limestone for many centuries.

A man and a child stand together on a rocky path in Todra Gorge, surrounded by tall canyon walls and colorful fabrics hanging on the side.

A person standing in the Todra Gorge, displaying the towering canyon walls made of limestone with a bright, natural light illuminating the scene.

The gorge looks almost prehistoric with canyon walls that reach over 400 metres in height – that’s higher than the Empire State Building in New York!

A vintage blue car parked beside a colorful array of fabric hangings in the rocky terrain of the Todra Gorge.

A vintage car parked beside a row of colorful woven fabrics hanging against a rocky cliff in the Atlas Mountains.

There’s a hotel nestled at the base of the gorge which would have been spectacular in its day but sadly is no longer open due to the risk of rock falls.