Cornwall for Easter

Bit of a change of pace now, from the heat and colour of Thailand to the sunny yet blustery South coast for our annual Easter jaunt.

Stopping overnight in Plymouth to break up the long drive we were headed for Cornwall and the little fishing village of Mevagissey.

First up on routehowever – Rame Head to visit the volunteer’s in the National Coastwatch Institution lookout on the top of the headland.

These dedicated souls give up their free time to monitor and record the vessels going into Plymouth harbour and listen to the radio frequencies for boats in distress.

They asked if we were “from abroad” (ie England) as the Cornish consider themselves a breed apart from their Northerly counterparts. Incidently, a few days later, the Cornish were officially recognised as a national minority group. Next up passports to enter Kernow? . . .

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The Rame headland has a prominent but lonely little chapel, dedicated to St Michael, accessible only by a steep footpath . . . and off we clamber.

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St Michael’s chapel was first licensed for Mass in 1397 and is probably on the site of a much earlier, Celtic, hermitage.

It remains as an intact shell with intricately built stone walls shoring it up against the bracing weather.

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Dartmoor ponies are dotted around the headland grazing in the sunshine.

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They look very cute but the signs warn that they kick and bite! I don’t need telling twice but some people just have to get closer!

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I sneak upto one of the deceptively placid little fluff balls to grab a snap before running away again.

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The Rame headland is prominent to sailors and fishermen leaving Plymouth through Plymouth Sound.

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Very often it’s the last piece of land they see when leaving England, and the first they see when returning home.

According to my favourite internet guru (Wikipedia) Rame Head appears in the sea shanty “Spanish Ladies”.

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Spanish Ladies lyrics (in case you’re curious about ancient sea shanties!)

The first land we sighted was call-ed the Dodman,
Next Rame Head off Plymouth, Start, Portland and Wight;
We sailed by Beachy, by Fairlight and Dover, (or “Dungeness”)
And then we bore up for the South Foreland light.

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Here’s a few more snaps of the tiny but speedy Dartmoor ponies as they chomp their way contently across the grass.

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Next up is the tiny picturesque village Looe before our final destination – squashing four adults into a caravan outside of Mevagissey!

Dancing for Gods and Fallen Heroes

Well that’s it for the Thai reminiscing folks. All the heat and colour is captured,  trapped like insects in amber and laid out for your readerly enjoyment!

While I plan the next global jaunt I’ll be taking a random look back at oddities from trips gone by. Here’s one about architectural details . . . .

As I travelled around various different Asian countries and snapped away at all the fascinating temples, a particular decorative element kept catching my eye.

Beautiful slender, elegant women, dancing, adorn so many temples from Angkor Wat in Cambodia to hill side temples in Chiang Mai, Thailand and the many ornate temples in India.

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I know them as Apsara, and decided to find out a bit more about the meaning behind the symbolism (by which I mean I went on Wikipedi!!)

According to the bastion of internet knowledge “An Apsara is a female spirit of the clouds and waters in Hindu and Buddhist mythology.”

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I read one of the most beautiful descriptions of Apsara while in Cambodia “Dancing for Gods and Fallen Heroes”.

Below are just a few of the delicate celestial dancers to be found at Cambodia’s Angkor Wat temple complex, captured in stone forever but still swaying to the universe’s music.

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English translations of the word Apsara can include nymph and celestial maiden.

Apsaras are beautiful, supernatural female beings who excel in dancing. They are often the wives of the Gandharvas, the court musicians of Indra.

They dance to the music made by the Gandharvas, usually in the palaces of the gods, and entertain and sometimes seduce gods and men.

They pop up all over the place – here they are decorating a Jain temple in the Indian city of Udiapur,

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As ethereal beings who inhabit the skies, and are often shown taking flight, or at service of a god, they may be compared to angels.

Here are a few more of the cheeky ladies carved into the amazing, ornate pillars at the Indian temple of Ranakpur in Rajashthan.

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Damnoen Saduak floating market

We had a single day in Bangkok before heading home and wanted to do something we’d not done before. I had fancied visiting a floating market and never managed it during the last trip.

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So we headed off to the most famous one Damnoen Saduak which is a fair ole ride out of the city in a very cramped van on a very pot holed road! (equalling one very sore butt . . )

Now I had heard various reports about the market, namely it was a tourist trap, you got dropped off at the wrong place and had to pay more to get to the actual market etc. In short the usual Thai experience.

In truth it was incredibly busy and full of tourists (more tourists clogging up boats and walkways than actual vendors!) full of people over charging for cheap items, trying to get you posing with a snake and other annoyances.

However it was still fun! Lots of colour, piles of food, spices, wooden carved artwork, fans, buddhas and other items to browse.

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Fancy a grilled banana or a conical hat? Sorted! Ditto a coffee, fridge magnet, tea-towel, boiled dry fish, peppercorns, pineapple, sticky rice and mango and more!

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More of the tiny dried shrimps that seem ubiquitous in Thailand on every street corner, market stall and food vendor.

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But there’s more. Pre packed fruit and nuts, plenty of tempting piles of jewel bright morsels.

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There was also a wide selection of traditional headgear in evidence. Including one that appeared to levitate above the wearer’s actual head!

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This style of bamboo-hat is called a ngob and protects from the sun and heat. The space between the hat and head allows air to circulate, keeping the wearer cooler.

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The colourful wares for sale are a nice contrast to the grey, grimy water of the canals.

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While a canny sales man waits with his slippery photo opportunity.

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Long tail Thai boats

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One of the prettiest beach spectacles are lines of traditional Thai longtail fishing boats all bobbing in the shallows.

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Garlanded with colourful flowers to bring the skipper and crew good luck they are a ubiquitous sight on many Thai beaches.

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Now often used to ferry boatloads of tourists around the islands, these lovely wooden vessels always make for fantastic photos.

Here’s the line up of boats at Maya Bay on Koh Phi Phi Leh.

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The colourful ribbons provide a vivid contrast to the almost unreal turquoise of the tranquil seas.

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The boats are basically a tractor engine with an extra long prop shaft that acts as a rudder as well. They produce a distinctive sound as they bomb across the sea.

They can produce quite a cloud of smoke though and do contribute to the pollution of the area.

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Morality messages or art as shock?

I don’t usually deviate from my usual blog post style of posting lots of lovely photos and creating a visual diary of my travels, more for my own memory aid then anything else to be honest!

But I spotted an article today on that bastion of journalistic prowess – the Daily Mail – about a tourist who was offended and shocked by one of the murals at Wat Rong Khun, the gorgeous white temple in Chiang Rai .

This intrigued me as I have very recently visited the temple and was enchanted by it. While the exterior of the temple is a spun sugar confectionery of whimsical whiteness and shiny mirrors, the inner temple is a riot of colour, depictions of demons and hell and unusual modern imagery.

Photos are forbidden inside the temple however (gahh!)  which I why I have none to post. But many others were not so considerate and you can find lots of pictures online.

The murals feature a wide range of disparate subject matter ranging from superman and the villain from the Saw movies to the striking and emotive image of the trade towers being hit by a plane on 9/11.

What has this to do with Buddhism you may well ask? Some say it is a reminder that superheroes can’t save you, only the supreme love of Buddha, others speculate it is a warning against the evils of materialism and sensualism.

Whatever the actual meaning that architect Chalermchai Kositpipat meant his paintings to convey, it certainly divides opinion and sparks debate.

You can read the whole article below (although when I say article, I actually mean – one angry quote from an unnamed Nottingham bloke and then some words that the Mail just lifted straight off a blog and published – epic journalism skills there – no really I do mean it! )

Daily Mail – Tourist offended by murals 

What are your thoughts? Are you offended by the use of the trade towers? Do you feel that Kositpipat is right to appropriate this tragedy for his own ends?

Snorkeling and freaking at fishes

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We quite like the beach, the water, the waves and the sandy stuff. However it all gets a bit more intense when forced to come into close contact with the inhabitants of the big wet sea place!

Hence the slightly manic grin on my face here. It is partly due to the rather bumpy / terrifying speed boat death ride we’d just endured, but also down to the fact we are about to SNORKEL!!!

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I am not a sporty person.This face says it all . . .

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Snorkeling is no exception to this rule.

However, once I stop panicking and trying to manically breathe through my nose, and squealing at waves, and freaking out at shoals of fish, then I am fine . . ish.

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Like a large, unwieldy, multi-coloured floaty fish I blend in effortlessly . . . just as long as the actual fish stay far, far, FAR away from me. Occasionally some brushed against me. I think they were doing it on purpose.

Look at the beady glint in their tiny little soulless black eyes . . . .

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Neil however is part merman and enjoys a spot of free diving amongst the sinister gilled ones.

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Christmas day at the beach

So, as Phuket is rip off city and the local tuc tuc mafia charge extortionate prices to get anywhere, we only went on one day trip during our week stay.

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That was on Christmas day and was a hair raising (and very bumpy) speedboat trip to Koh Phi Phi and the surrounding islands. Here’s me barely keeping my hair on!!

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We make a brief stop at Monkey Beach in Tonsai Bay. The beach got its name from the crab-eating Macaque monkey colony living here but is littered with rubbish from tourists and was quite a sad spectacle really,

The main attraction of the day was Koh Phi Phi Leh’s Maya Bay – a broken circle of crystal-clear waters surrounded by high vertical rocky cliffs.

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It is here that the Hollywood blockbuster The Beach was filmed. Simultanously putting Thailand on the mainstream map and paving the way for its inevitable downfall.

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The beach is crammed with hundreds of tourists, all vying for the ideal picture postcard snap of white sand and turquoise sea.

It is there of course, as you can see by my very carefully composed photos, hiding the multitudinous masses.

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Here’s some of the traditional Thai fishing boats moored up along the shoreline.

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We also floated past the Viking cave where swifts’ nests are harvested to prepare the world-famous bird’s nest soup.

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The platforms are a rickety looking set up. It’s amazing that anyone can do a decent days work on those.

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We then ate our Christmas lunch overlooking the beach on Koh Phi Phi Don – not bad!!!

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It’s a little bit different to sprouts and roast potatoes!!! Next up snorkeling and more beaches.

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Extortion and beach bums

So we had all sorts of plans for sight seeing in Phuket. All to be ultimately frustrated by the annoyance that I shall term the “tuk tuk mafia”.

Having done a fair old bit of travelling in Thailand, we have a pretty good idea of what is a reasonable rate for hopping in one of the little pollution belching death mobiles.

But in Phuket, and in Karon and Kata particularly, there is an unsavoury racket going on with this method of transport.

Having laughed in the face of the first driver who wanted to charge us about  Â£30 to travel 10 – 15 miles to see the Big Buddha, we quickly realised that the prices were completely stitched up and everyone charged the same.

Bearing in mind that the same journey in Bangkok would probably have cost about £5 you can see the issue. But tourists who have only come for a fortnight of winter sun are happy to pay the price.

However, it is not only the extortionate cost that was a problem, the drivers have formed a cartel backed up with threats and physical violence to dissuade anyone operating a reasonable alternative.

A cheaper bus service was once trialed years ago but after the driver was pulled from his vehicle and badly beaten it was abandoned.

Apparently the local police and local government are well aware of the problem but dare not address it. It continues to be the biggest cause of complaints from tourists yet no action is taken. It certainly put me off ever returning to Phuket and I would not recommend anyone else visit either sadly.

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So, since we couldn’t afford to see anything at all in Phuket we had to spend all our time lounging on the beach. I know – it’s a hard life!!

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Check out the flabby, pasty blob that washed up on the shore line . .

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Karon beach is a long, sandy curve of white sandy with the obligatory turquoise sea lapping away at the shore.

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From dusting off the grains of sand, to tapping to turn the page of my Kindle, it was sheer slothful idleness!!

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But I did get fairly bored after a while it has to be said! I am not a beach lover particularly, it does get a tad tedious after a while.

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Especially as the spectre of the unvisited Giant Buddha, just ten miles away, hovered in the back of my mind.

Beaches and epic hotel!

So after the cool greenery of the north we head to the busy beach resorts of Phuket for a spot of vegging over the festive period.

We chose Karon as our base as it was not as hectic as Patong but had a long, nice beach and proximity to other places to sight see in (or so I thought…..)

Before all that though, I have to devote this post to our wonderful accomodation Phuket Club Resort

Set part way up a hillside, about ten minutes walk from the main beach and town, this was a little slice of affordable paradise, complete with amazing roof top pool!!!

No apologies for the following slide show of us in said pool!!

It had a wonderful view over Karon and towards the sea. We spent many happy hours just lounging on the roof terrace, ordering pool side snacks and dipping in the pool when the relaxing all got a bit too much!

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The pro tanner is out making sure that all his bits get an even roasting. . .

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There is also a cute little outdoor spa pool in the hotel grounds and a steam room over a little bridge (you do have to mince past diners in your robe though, but heck!!)

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Here’s us steaming gently . . .

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Not really sure if I am aiming for sultry or seductive in this final image. Either way the overall effect is that of a lobster giving you the evil eye . .

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Plug for Street Pizza!!!

After our arduous few days in the mountains I felt that I deserved some lovely tasty dough based food.

Hence a pit stop at the best pizza restaurant in Thailand – Street Pizza! I have to say, hand on heart, their pizza was actually better than some we’ve had in Italy . . .

It’s tucked down a little back alley, all bare brick and chalk board wall simplicity. (We got to write on their wall, so our witty thoughtful feedback is probably still there . . . )

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Then having scoffed our faces on pizza we headed onto the final Saturday market before we left for the beaches of Phuket.

Here’s some final glorious market shots!!!  Here’s my favourites of the bunch – traditional Thai ice cream in dinky little metal moulds.

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Plenty of flavours from the recognisable such as lemon, cola and orange to more exotic such as green tea, Custard Apple and Durian!

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Then there’s the adorable little baby shoes in every colour of the rainbow and a spectrum of gorgeous light shades.

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Then there’s always the meat in ball format, all types of animal on a stick. And Neil braving it . .

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